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Red Panda Trek

Ten days in the bamboo cloud forest of eastern Nepal, searching for the red panda at dawn and dusk.

10 days, up to 3,300 m, and 77 birds recorded on this route.

Best months: March to May and October to December.

Start the journeyDay by day, on the map
  • Clip, 16 s: Red Panda climbing slowly along a branch through bamboo and moss, tail hanging belowVideo
  • Wide shot: rows of tea bushes on the Ilam hills in morning mist, a tea picker on the path
  • Landscape: male Satyr Tragopan on a mossy log in the rhododendron forest, crimson breast with white spots
  • Wide shot: Kanchenjunga floating above a sea of cloud from the ridge above the red panda forest
  • Landscape: Krishna and a local tracker kneeling over red panda droppings on a bamboo-lined trail, guests with cameras behind

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Ten days in the bamboo and rhododendron cloud forest of far-eastern Nepal, searching for the red panda with a local tracker in the first and last light. Between searches the forest is full of eastern birds: Satyr Tragopan, Fire-tailed Myzornis, parrotbills and Scarlet Finch. For patient photographers and birders who are happy on a quiet, remote trail.

Birds to look for

None of them is promised: wild birds keep their own plans.

  • Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler

    Spelaeornis caudatus

    Dobate · 2,660 m · sometimes seen

    “A tiny, almost tailless bird with a rufous throat, creeping like a mouse through the moss and singing loud.”

  • Spiny Babbler

    Turdoides nipalensis

    Ilam · 1,200 m · sometimes seen

    “Nepal's only endemic bird, a streaky skulker of the scrub that sings beautifully from the top of a bush.”

  • Hoary-throated Barwing

    Actinodura nipalensis

    Sandakpur Ridge Search Area · 3,300 m · usually seen

    “A barred, hoary-throated babbler working the mossy limbs.”

  • White-rumped Vulture

    Gyps bengalensis

    Ilam · 1,200 m · sometimes seen

    “A beautiful sight when vultures wheel over the river forest, and always a good day.”

  • Satyr Tragopan

    Tragopan satyra

    Dobate · 2,660 m · sometimes seen

    “A crimson, pearl-spotted forest pheasant that is heard long before it is seen, so every glimpse is a celebration.”

  • Yellow-rumped Honeyguide

    Indicator xanthonotus

    Dobate · 2,660 m · sometimes seen

    “Beside the rock bee combs on the cliffs”

  • Grey-headed Parrotbill

    Psittiparus gularis

    Dobate · 2,660 m · sometimes seen

    “Grey-headed, black-browed and orange-billed, in noisy parties working through the broadleaf canopy.”

  • Black-throated Bushtit

    Aegithalos concinnus

    Ilam · 1,200 m · usually seen

    “Tiny long-tailed flocks tinkling through the bushes.”

  • Black-throated Sunbird

    Aethopyga saturata

    Ilam · 1,200 m · usually seen

    “Maroon, blue and yellow, in the flowering trees.”

  • Spot-winged Grosbeak

    Mycerobas melanozanthos

    Red Panda Habitat, Sandakpur Ridge · 3,100 m · sometimes seen

    “A heavy-billed black-and-yellow grosbeak with white-spotted wings, cracking seeds in the treetops.”

  • White-gorgeted Flycatcher

    Anthipes monileger

    Dobate · 2,660 m · sometimes seen

    “A small brown flycatcher with a white throat neatly outlined in black, low in the forest shade.”

  • Golden-throated Barbet

    Psilopogon franklinii

    Ilam · 1,200 m · usually seen

    “A colourful hill-forest barbet with a gold, red and black head.”

All 77 birds on this routeand 11 other animals and plants

Birds 77

  • Asian Pied Starling
  • Black Bulbul
  • Black Drongo
  • Black Eagle
  • Black Kite
  • Black-faced Laughingthrush
  • Black-throated Bushtit
  • Black-throated Parrotbill
  • Black-throated Sunbird
  • Blood Pheasant
  • Blue-throated Barbet
  • Blue-winged Minla
  • Cattle Egret
  • Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush
  • Chestnut-tailed Minla
  • Collared Grosbeak
  • Common Myna
  • Common Tailorbird
  • Darjeeling Woodpecker
  • Dark-breasted Rosefinch
  • Egyptian Vulture
  • Eurasian Kestrel
  • Fire-tailed Myzornis
  • Fire-tailed Sunbird
  • Gold-naped Finch
  • Golden-breasted Fulvetta
  • Golden-throated Barbet
  • Grandala
  • Great Barbet
  • Great Parrotbill
  • Green Bee-eater
  • Green-backed Tit
  • Grey Treepie
  • Grey Wagtail
  • Grey-crested Tit
  • Grey-headed Parrotbill
  • Grey-hooded Warbler
  • Hill Partridge
  • Himalayan Bulbul
  • Himalayan Griffon
  • Himalayan Monal
  • Hoary-throated Barwing
  • Indian Pond-Heron
  • Indian Roller
  • Kalij Pheasant
  • Lammergeier
  • Large Niltava
  • Large-billed Crow
  • Long-tailed Minivet
  • Long-tailed Shrike
  • Mountain Hawk-Eagle
  • Oriental Magpie-Robin
  • Oriental White-eye
  • Red-headed Bullfinch
  • Red-vented Bulbul
  • Red-wattled Lapwing
  • Rufous Sibia
  • Rufous-bellied Niltava
  • Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler
  • Rufous-vented Tit
  • Rufous-vented Yuhina
  • Satyr Tragopan
  • Scarlet Finch
  • Spiny Babbler
  • Spot-winged Grosbeak
  • Spotted Dove
  • Spotted Laughingthrush
  • Spotted Owlet
  • Stripe-throated Yuhina
  • Verditer Flycatcher
  • Whiskered Yuhina
  • White-browed Fulvetta
  • White-gorgeted Flycatcher
  • White-rumped Vulture
  • White-throated Kingfisher
  • Yellow-billed Blue Magpie
  • Yellow-rumped Honeyguide

Mammals 7

  • Assamese Macaque
  • Barking Deer
  • Himalayan Black Bear
  • Himalayan Langur
  • Himalayan Serow
  • Red Panda
  • Yellow-throated Marten

Plants 4

  • Bearded Rhododendron
  • Bell-flowered Rhododendron
  • Maling Bamboo
  • Tree Rhododendron

A day on this trip

We search the red panda forest in the first and last hours of light, with a local tracker reading the signs, and bird the bamboo in between. The days are slow and patient: three to five hours of walking at most, and plenty of time with the camera.

The way, day by day

  1. Day 1
    Kathmandu1,400 m · Black Kite, Large-billed Crow
    1. Airport pickup, hotel check-in, and a photography and trekking briefing.

    Birds 10: Black Kite, Large-billed Crow, Common Myna, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Red-vented Bulbul, Spotted Dove, Himalayan Bulbul, Eurasian Kestrel, Grey Wagtail, Egyptian Vulture

    Seen from here: Phulchowki (2,782 m)

  2. Day 2
    Ilam1,200 m · Spiny Babbler, White-rumped Vulture
    1. A morning flight to Bhadrapur, in the far eastern lowlands of Nepal.

    2. Then the drive into the tea-growing hills of Ilam. The tea gardens and forest patches around town are a good first look at the birds of the eastern hills.

    Birds 29: Black Kite, Cattle Egret, Asian Pied Starling, Common Myna, Indian Pond-Heron, Black Drongo, Red-wattled Lapwing, Indian Roller, Spotted Owlet, White-throated Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Himalayan Bulbul, Red-vented Bulbul, Great Barbet, Grey Treepie, Oriental White-eye, Long-tailed Shrike, Golden-throated Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Verditer Flycatcher, Black Bulbul, Common Tailorbird, Long-tailed Minivet, Grey-hooded Warbler, Black-throated Bushtit, Black-throated Sunbird, Spiny Babbler, White-rumped Vulture, Mountain Hawk-Eagle

    Mammals 1: Assamese Macaque

  3. Day 3
    Dobate2,660 m · Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler, Satyr Tragopan
    1. We drive to the trailhead and begin trekking into forested hill terrain, up to the small village of Dobate on the edge of the red panda forest.

    Birds 21: Rufous Sibia, Whiskered Yuhina, Blue-winged Minla, Green-backed Tit, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Kalij Pheasant, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Large Niltava, Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Black-throated Parrotbill, Black-throated Bushtit, Black-throated Sunbird, Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler, Grey-headed Parrotbill, White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Hill Partridge, Satyr Tragopan, Scarlet Finch, Yellow-rumped Honeyguide

    Mammals 3: Barking Deer, Red Panda, Yellow-throated Marten

    Plants 2: Maling Bamboo, Tree Rhododendron

  4. Day 4
    Bamboo Forest Camp2,950 m · Hoary-throated Barwing, Spot-winged Grosbeak
    1. The first of two days of trekking through dense bamboo-rhododendron forest, the preferred habitat of red pandas.

    Birds 17: White-browed Fulvetta, Rufous-vented Tit, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Chestnut-tailed Minla, Black-faced Laughingthrush, Black-throated Parrotbill, Hoary-throated Barwing, Spotted Laughingthrush, Rufous-vented Yuhina, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Red-headed Bullfinch, Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler, Satyr Tragopan, Great Parrotbill, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Spot-winged Grosbeak, Gold-naped Finch

    Mammals 3: Himalayan Langur, Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear

    Plants 2: Maling Bamboo, Bearded Rhododendron

  5. Day 5
    Red Panda Habitat, Sandakpur Ridge3,100 m · Grey-crested Tit, Dark-breasted Rosefinch
    1. We reach the core habitat, with naturalist guides tracking signs (droppings, feeding marks) to locate active areas. This is our base for the search days.

    Birds 19: White-browed Fulvetta, Grey-crested Tit, Rufous-vented Tit, Black-faced Laughingthrush, Large-billed Crow, Golden-breasted Fulvetta, Black-throated Parrotbill, Red-headed Bullfinch, Dark-breasted Rosefinch, Collared Grosbeak, Spotted Laughingthrush, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Himalayan Monal, Fire-tailed Myzornis, Scarlet Finch, Spot-winged Grosbeak

    Mammals 4: Yellow-throated Marten, Himalayan Serow, Red Panda, Himalayan Black Bear

    Plants 2: Maling Bamboo, Bell-flowered Rhododendron

  6. Day 6
    Sandakpur Ridge Search Area3,300 m · Himalayan Griffon, Black Eagle
    1. Three dedicated days based in the core habitat zone, conducting early morning and late afternoon searches, the peak activity windows for red pandas, alongside forest birding for pheasants, laughingthrushes and raptors.

    Birds 14: Black-faced Laughingthrush, Spotted Laughingthrush, Hoary-throated Barwing, Himalayan Griffon, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Large-billed Crow, Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Himalayan Monal, Hill Partridge, Black Eagle, Lammergeier, Grandala, Fire-tailed Myzornis

    Mammals 2: Himalayan Serow, Red Panda

    Plants 1: Tree Rhododendron

    Seen from here: Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Kanchenjunga Himal (0 m)

  7. Day 7
    Rest day at Sandakpur Ridge Search Area3,300 m · Hoary-throated Barwing, Satyr Tragopan

    Birds 14: Black-faced Laughingthrush, Spotted Laughingthrush, Hoary-throated Barwing, Himalayan Griffon, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Large-billed Crow, Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Himalayan Monal, Hill Partridge, Black Eagle, Lammergeier, Grandala, Fire-tailed Myzornis

    Mammals 2: Himalayan Serow, Red Panda

    Plants 1: Tree Rhododendron

    Seen from here: Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Kanchenjunga Himal (0 m)

  8. Day 8
    Rest day at Sandakpur Ridge Search Area3,300 m · Hoary-throated Barwing, Satyr Tragopan

    Birds 14: Black-faced Laughingthrush, Spotted Laughingthrush, Hoary-throated Barwing, Himalayan Griffon, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Large-billed Crow, Satyr Tragopan, Blood Pheasant, Himalayan Monal, Hill Partridge, Black Eagle, Lammergeier, Grandala, Fire-tailed Myzornis

    Mammals 2: Himalayan Serow, Red Panda

    Plants 1: Tree Rhododendron

    Seen from here: Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), Kanchenjunga Himal (0 m)

  9. Day 9
    Kathmandu1,400 m · Black Kite, Cattle Egret
    1. Down from the forest and back by road through Ilam to Bhadrapur, for the flight to Kathmandu.

    2. The return journey ends with a night back in Kathmandu.

    Birds 19: Black Kite, Cattle Egret, Asian Pied Starling, Common Myna, Indian Pond-Heron, Black Drongo, Red-wattled Lapwing, Indian Roller, Spotted Owlet, White-throated Kingfisher, Green Bee-eater, Large-billed Crow, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Red-vented Bulbul, Spotted Dove, Himalayan Bulbul, Eurasian Kestrel, Grey Wagtail, Egyptian Vulture

    Seen from here: Phulchowki (2,782 m)

  10. Day 10
    Kathmandu1,400 m · Black Kite, Large-billed Crow
    1. Final breakfast and the departure transfer.

    Birds 10: Black Kite, Large-billed Crow, Common Myna, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Red-vented Bulbul, Spotted Dove, Himalayan Bulbul, Eurasian Kestrel, Grey Wagtail, Egyptian Vulture

    Seen from here: Phulchowki (2,782 m)

Good to know

Guiding
Krishna leads the whole trip
Difficulty
Moderate
Highest point
3,300 m, Sandakpur Ridge Search Area
Best months
March to May and October to December
Region
Ilam, eastern Nepal
What's included

Included

  • Domestic flights (Kathmandu–Bhadrapur return)
  • All ground transportation
  • Teahouse/camping accommodation as required
  • All meals during the trek
  • Local permits and conservation fees
  • Expert wildlife photography and trekking guide, porter support

Not included

  • International flights and visa
  • Camera gear
  • Tips and personal expenses